Saturday, July 11, 2009

Sterling Silver Wire




Silver Wire is one of the single most useful Jewellery Components ever invented. Stones And Findings has a variety of shapes and gauges Sterling Silver Wire. In Jewellery Making, Silver Wire can be used to weave, connect components, thread beads, tie and frame, and embellish beads. Silver Wire can also be hammered and twisted into shapes and be, in itself, the centre of the Jewellery Design.

SHAPES OF STERLING SILVER WIRE



Round Silver Wire





Round Silver Wire is the most commonly used in Jewellery Making. As most bead holes are drilled round, round Silver Wire fits the best. Unlike square Silver Wire, round Silver Wire will not show edges and you don't have to worry about misalignment. Round Silver Wire is the best for beginners. They are also the most readily available of all Silver Wires. They come in spools, coils, and foot-length straight pieces.

Square Silver Wire





Square Silver Wire are needed in certain projects where round Silver Wire just will not work. For example: when you need hanging pieces not to swing or swivel. You can use Square Silver Wire as the cog that fits into a square hole. Square Silver Wire also produces a nice faceted look for fancy wire wrapping.

Half Round Silver Wire





Half Round Silver Wire is available at some specialty bead stores. It has some properties of the square Silver Wire when you need things secured, but also can provide the aesthetics of round wire when wrapped.

Sterling Silver Wire Hardness



Silver Wire is generally available in 4 grades of hardness: hard, half hard, soft, dead soft.

When to use Harder vs Softer Silver Wire



With thicker Silver Wire, it is better to work with soft or dead soft wire. Hard Silver Wire, in thicker gauges is very difficult to manipulate. For thinner Silver Wire, you have more flexibility. Depending on your project, you should select Silver Wire hardness accordingly. If you wire wrapping many little light weight pearls or beads, you should use soft or dead soft if the beads are very small. The harder the Silver Wire, the more difficult it is to manipulate, so if you're making many wraps, it will get tiring if the Silver Wire is hard. If what you're wrapping is heavier, and you need it to be more secure, use harder Silver Wire. It won't bend or unwind as easily. If the holes in the beads are larger, then you can use thicker Silver Wire that is soft. However, the Silver Wire will cost more.

How to make Silver Wire Harder or Softer



The process of making Silver Wire harder is called Tempering. You can do this yourself by hammering, or tumbling. The more you manipulate Silver Wire, the stiffer it becomes.

The process of making Silver Wire softer is called Annealing. This would be done by exposing the Silver Wire to high heat, such as a flame. This will re-align the molecules of the Silver Wire. Annealing is one of the basic techniques learned in a silver-smith class. It is essential to working with silver, and it is not as easy as tempering, and requires a lot more equipment. Fortunately, Silver Wirecan be ordered already soft.

Thursday, July 9, 2009

Creating Your Own Patina for Sterling Silver Jewellery

by Elizabeth Meister

If you want to darken the surface of your sterling silver jewellery components or jewellery designs quickly you can use a few different methods. These methods include the boiled egg method, the kitty litter method and the shower method.

The Boiled Egg Method
The most important part of this method in darkening the surface of your sterling silver jewellery includes the use of the yolk. You can choose to separate the white if you want to use it for something else - as the egg will not be edible after you perform this method!


credit: http://www.jewelrylessons.com/node/701


For this method, you need to take a resealable container or bag; then, after separating the egg white from the yolk break the yolk or mix it, and put your sterling silver jewellery inside the bag together with the yolk.

Your sterling silver jewellery can touch the egg; don't worry about contaminating it. After waiting 10 minutes, you will start to notice that your sterling silver jewllery will start to change and you can wait as long as 10 hours, developing a darker colour gradually.

TIPS - Be sure to clean your sterling silver jewellery well before putting it together with the yolk. This will help in creating a more even coat.

The Kitty Litter Method
The key component to this method is the ammonia found in the urine of your pet. Therefore, you need to create an air tight environment, above which your sterling silver jewellery can hang. You will also need a bowl, that you can throw away after, and a large zip-lock bag. Fill the bowl with kitty litter, hang your sterling silver jewellery above it, and cover with a zip-lock bag. If you want a much faster reaction, bury your sterling silver piece in the kitty litter, let it stand a few minutes and clean well after the procedure is complete.

credit: Sanrio

TIPS - If you would prefer not using this method, you can use different liquids to saturate your sterling silver jewellery such as old wine, ammonia, or sour milk. Saw dust is also a good alternative to kitty litter as well.

The Shower Method
If you have a few weeks of time to dedicate to your method, consider the shower method. Simply, hang your sterling silver jewellery in your bathroom and over a few weeks time it will naturally patina itself.

And if you don't like your home made patina finish for your sterling silver jewellery, you can always use the pre-packaged patina. Liver of Sulfur can be found at most jewellery supply stores. Just take a small amount of Liver of Sulfur and mix it with a cup of water and dip and re-dip your sterling silver piece into the solution until you've reached the desired colour. You can also create a wide variety of colours by simply warming up the liquid before dipping inn your sterling silver jewellery.

After you have created the patina on your sterling silver piece, feel free to experiment with baking soda on your finished surface.

Canadian Accessory Industry

The accessory industry is an ever changing landscape of competition. See where you fit in, and how to compete with the rest.

Large Scale Jewelry Manufacturers

This classification refers to companies that have more than 50 permanent staff, and produce millions of pieces of jewelry each year for sale to distributors or customers who sell large volumes. Companies of this magnitude have learned how to make the most out of globalization, and most of the factories producing their jewelry are located in South East Asian countries where labour costs are extremely low. This strategy results in a very low per-unit cost. The lower cost of labour more than makes up for the increased cost of shipping. You never want to compete head on with these suppliers since they will always be able to make things for less. There are some drawbacks to dealing with large scale jewelry manufacturers that the other players can exploit to compete effectively. Big companies cannot change their operations very fast. They are usually setup to do one thing well and repeat it over and over again, so as the styles change from stringing to wire wrapping to casting to gluing, they have all of their staff to retrain and the factory to retool.

Jewelry items produced by these factories are shipped via sea freight which is less expensive, but takes four to six weeks for delivery. They also may have long lead times for orders. From a jewelry order to delivery it may be 3 or 4 months. Once the jewelry order is made it is too late for adjustments. It can also be difficult to communicate precise jewelry design specifications, which are sometimes misinterpreted: one person's 'pink' might be different from another's; one person's 'acceptable' may be another's 'defective' , etc.

Small to Mid-Size Manufacturers

This calibre of organization has 3 to 20 permanent staff and sells jewelry to a broad area like an entire country or continent with the help of sales representatives. They can not usually depend on cheap labour to save on costs. Although jewelry component quantities ordered are not as high as large manufacturers, mid-sized companies still enjoy some level of bulk jewelry component discounts. Jewelry accessory operations at this level have usually made some international supplier contacts and tend to buy components locally and abroad. At the very least, jewelry companies don't have quite the same burden of unwieldy international communications or expensive and time-consuming shipping.

Their main strength is the distinctive jewelry design that made their jewelry operation sustainable in the first place, jewelry production methods that are streamlined as much as possible, and friendly connections to material suppliers that don't involve too many 'middle men.'

Independent Artisan Studios

These are usually comprised of a single energetic and slightly business-savvy designer who is responsible for designing, manufacturing, and selling their own jewelry creations to boutiques and other individuals. Jewelry is their main source of income. Material costs per unit are quite high because small quantities of jewelry components are purchased, but shipping is usually negligible as objects are coming from nearby places. Relying on locally available gemstones, wire, beads, and chains, however, may impose confining restrictions on creativity. Labour costs appear low because the designer does most or all of the work, but it is time-consuming. From a business point of view, it's a pretty taxing cost-to-benefit ratio, and doesn't amount to the most enticing hourly wage. Thankfully it's a small price to pay for creative people who have begun to make a living from their jewelry artistry.

Hobbyists
These are enthusiastic, self-motivated individuals who make jewelry on the side of their day job or other fulltime responsibilities. They may sell their unique jewelry creations to friends, family, and so on, but not in a way that significantly adds into their personal income. It is usually because of encouragement and positive feedback that they decide to pursue accessories as a career. Most established jewelry designers started out in this way.

Material costs per unit are very high because small quantities are typically purchased from bead or craft stores that add their own markups to jewelry components. These stores target casual crafters who are not selling much jewelry, and are therefore a bad place to shop for anyone producing significant quantities or hoping to turn a profit from sales. Labour costs normally don't exist in a monetary sense, but only because one person is doing all the work, on their own time. For these people, making jewelry is not considered labour or work.

Copycats

Some entrepreneurs make a living through copying existing jewelry designs and reproducing them at a reduced cost. They then sell these jewelry copies at a price point that undercuts the original seller, with their own jewelry designs. Sometimes boutiques and department stores actually request cheap copies of jewelry so they can improve their profit margins. 'Copycat' jewelry operations are typically smaller and locally run, making them very flexible and dynamic, without a large overhead or inventory. Since they usually use locally available components bought in relatively small quantities- an expensive combination- they must find creative ways of reducing the cost of jewelry production. Labour is one point of savings, as these jewelry manufacturers will generally work on their own and in their own home, and cheap materials are another. Since gemstones, crystals, precious metals, and other components all have a sizeable range in quality and value, there is always money to be saved in cutting corners on materials.

Creating your Own Hammered Finish



Creating your own hammered finish on sterling silver, gold filled or gold vermeille components is easy.


For the following , I will be using sterling silver as examples. Since there are many different types of hammer heads, this leads to an endless list of possibilities! Some tools you can consider to change the look are: a ball peen hammer, a flat nose hammer, a rawhide hammer, or a wooden hammer. Each hammer will give your sterling silver, gold filled or gold vermeille component a different result. When you are hammering your metal, try out a couple different bases underneath. You could use a piece of wood, which is a soft base, and this will provide some give to the metal, and it can bend. Depending on where you hammer your sterling silver, it can move the metal in small amounts. Try it out on a test piece to see what type of hammer dent will provide what you're looking for.

Another base is a steel block. When hammering on the steel block you will not only be creating a finish on the side you are hammering, but you will also be creating another finish on the side of the sterling silver component that is facing the steel.



*TIP* if you do not want to dent your hammer or your anvil's finish, put some masking tape on the surface you will be using, it will lessen the likelihood of you damaging your tools.

There are many bases that will give different looks pending on the hammer and the amount of resistance your surface will give. I've used a hockey puck as a base once, so I was able to easily give a hammered effect to one side of the sterling silver component, yet the other side was not affected and did not dent the same way as if it was on a harder surface like a steel block.

*TIP*Keep in mind when holding your hammer, do not point out your index finger, since this can result in injury. You want to hold the hammer at the end of the handle for the most effective hit. And be sure to use your whole arm and elbow. Misuse of a hammer can often result in wrist injuries as well.




A ball peen hammerhead will create metal divots, and pending on the size of your hammerhead, you can have something similar to pointillism or even something large like a creator and everything in between. With this you can create many unique and diversified looks on your sterling silver components.



A flat nose hammerhead will create a line. This type of simple mark can be used for a wide range of designs. For example you can fan out the pattern on your sterling silver component, or you can crisscross it like a pile of sticks.




Feel free to try out this technique, I guarantee you will have a lot of fun with it, and it can also be a great stress reliever!

Saturday, July 4, 2009

Cost Saving Tips using Silver Chain

Silver is a precious metal, and it is important when using sterling silver chains, to be cost effective in your designs. Here are some cost saving tips:

1. Choose silver chains where large loops are connected with smaller soldered rings, so that you lose less when you cut the chain.




2. Choose silver chains that have a combination of different sized links. This creates an illusion of movement. The links look almost as thick as a thicker silver chain with consistently sized links, but will weigh less.



3. Cut a section of thicker silver chain for the front, and use a thinner chain for the back 40%. You don't see much of the thinner chain, and while lying flat on display, the thinner silver chain will just look a bit more tapered.

For the Back:


4. When creating a long necklace using silver chains, select a variety of weight and widths. Cut 4" sections and connect them. This creates interest and movement. The effect is bulking the look of the entire necklace, while cutting cost using lighter silver chains.



5. Save the cut loops from silver chains. You can reuse them as jumprings. Use them to connect sections of silver chain. They will blend perfectly. If the metal is soft, hammer lightly, and it will harden. For larger loops, you can use the silver chain loop as a split ring by turning them with a pair of round nose plyers.

How to Create your own Jewellery Pins

There are three standard jewellery pins; head pins, ball pins, and eye pins. And then, there are always unique jewellery pins that provide a cap with in the in pin itself. Stones and Findings a wide variety of pins, including ball pins , eye pins , head pins as well as fancy pins in sterling silver, gold filled and gold vermeille.



However there are times when all you need in your design is just the bead. If your design requires nothing fancy on the end of your pin, then there is a great way to create your own pin head. This works especially well with pearls. Often basic pins are a little too thick for your standard drill hole on a pearl, too. The examples below demonstrate how you can make the different types of pins, using Sterling Silver Wire. You can however, just as easily use Gold Vermeille or Gold Filled wire.



Head Pin

Simply take a section of your sterling silver 22 Gauge wire, and cut off the desired length for your pin. Then put this section of sterling silver wire, into your parallel pliers, leaving a millimeter peeking out at the end. With a flat nose hammer, hammer the exposed bit of your sterling silver wire with a few strikes. Hammer in one direction, and then take out the pin and rotate it a quarter of the way. Then continue to strike the sterling silver tip. This will expand the metal just enough to stop your bead from sliding off the end of the wire. By rotating your piece ofsterling silver wire, you will ensure that the end of the pin is equally fanned out. And there you have it; you've created your own sterling silver head pin.



Now to the naked eye, it may not seem like you've created something that will stop the pearl, but by creating a small flat end on your sterling silver wire you will essentially stop it from sliding off.

*TIP* - to get a professional finish, use an old pair of parallel pliers, or wrap masking tape around your pliers ends to ensure that you do not leave any hammer marks on your sterling silverpins.

Eye Pin




Start by taking the end of your sterling silver 22 Gauge wire, and using your round tip pliers, bend into a small circle at the end of your wire piece. Then, depending on the length you need for your project cut about 1cm or more from your sterling silver wire. This will allow you to have extra room to wire wrap once you've put your stones or beads onto the finished sterling silver eye pin.



Ball Pin

For this project, it would be ideal to have access to a torch. With it you can heat up the end of your sterling silver wire, applying a small amount of heat and the metal will ball at 1640f/893c. Once your sterling silver wire has started to ball, take the heat away, quench and polish the piece and then you will have your home made sterling silver ball pin.



*TIP* - if you are using soft sterling silver wire and find it too soft for your project, take the section needed and hold it from end to end with your two parallel pliers. Then twist the piece of sterling silver wire in opposite directions and it will harden a bit. Twist it a lot and you'll have your soft sterling silver wire to harden in no time!