Bead Benefits

I've always found beads and jewelery making strongly therapeutic. The focus washes away all worries and I come out of each design session feeling strangely more refreshed and lucid. However, it wasn't until recently that I received some confirmation of the benefits of beads and the girls made little bracelets to keep. It was a hit and they had lots of fun. The beads were very inexpensive, and I was almost appalled they used plastic beads and poorly painted wooden beads. The parents thought it was the best and the kids were thrilled. The bead snob in me decided to show them what good beads look like, and I was going to outdo everyone with the best sterling clasps look like, I thought I could teach them how to finish their own pieces properly. So, it wasn't a bead party that would end all bead parties.

There was a brother (age 6) and sister (age 8) who were part of the group that came out. I actually didn't invite the brother even though he was my daughter's best friend. I naturally assumed that he would not be interested because his parents seemed so gender conservative and dressed him mainly in greens and blues. He had also declined attending parties which my daughter didn't go because he didn't want to be the only boy. My daughter is a tom girl, so he feels she doesn't count as a girl. Anyhow, his mother asked if she could bring him. I was embarrassed of my assumption and wholeheartedly welcomed them. But I brought out my daughter's collection of shark's teeth fossils, boxier sterling clasps and thick leather, just in case if the beads don't go over very well. The boy's mother is a neurologist at the Sick Children's Hospital, i.e. a brain specialist. His father is a paediatric heart specialist at the same hospital. So, they're really into the development of children. While the children are engrossed in the platters full of beads, the mother told me why she encourages her son to do beading. In fact, she has beads at home and she had read many studies that point to the benefits of bead counting and sorting for a child's brain development. Not only will it improve their mathematical skills, it helps develop patience. It also has calming effects on hyperactive children. The size of the beads should vary inversely with the children's age for safety, of course. The little boy is brilliant and very patient. However, I don't know if that has got more to do with genetics than just a lot of bead sorting.

The session was a smash and the mothers were intrigued, and rather dazzled by the array of glass beads, crystals, pearls and stone beads. I find that an easy finish for the bracelets were the lobster clasp . Or for slightly older children and limited budget, one might consider the larger spring ring clasp.

You can certainly contribute to the well being of your friends and family. The necklace making party only took about 2 hours, but it was great for them. The moms wanted to offer money so I'd hold it again. The kids didn't want to go. So, it was worthwhile. I'd recommend larger shell beads. Czech crystals are great. Stringing material can simply be elastic for the little ones.

By the way, the pirate's necklace with the shark tooth was amazing. I used 22 ga sterling wire and wrapped around the tooth, ending in a loop for leather to go through. I think he will treasure the necklace forever.

Chinese Sterling Silver Findings

Sterling silver findings from China vary a great deal in terms of price and quality. You really end up getting what you paid for. In general, quality has improved dramatically in the past 5 years and many sterling silver findings made in China are now world-class.

There are ISO 9000 certified companies, many of which house Italian and German machinery to make their findings. The prices from these companies are not cheap, but they run about 15% less than Italian and Israeli companies for comparable items. The intricacy and precision in many sterling silver pieces will often be higher from these Chinese factories. I have found them willing to make difficult to make sterling silver findings which the Italian, Israeli and Indian factories are not willing or able to make. Many Chinese factories use the latest CAD machinery in their model making. Asians like precision designs, and appreciate machine made perfection, much like the Germans do. However, Asians like either a cutesier or more elegant look, whereas Germans appreciate a more minimalist industrial look. And because of this, Chinese factories have been willing to invest in machinery to achieve this look in their sterling silver components, and they have large talent pool of fine craftsmen, whose art has been passed down from generation to generation from which to draw. You can find some of the sterling silver findings which I've designed and got made in China: Double Hollow Pears, Circle Pendant with Leaf Filigree, Leaf Pedants , Circle Filigree Pedants and more.

I have also dealt with some Chinese factories that just can't make good sterling silver findings, no matter how hard they try. And generally, these are the common characteristics that are visible at tradeshows: their designs are thick and chunky, their samples have visible solder marks, they don't understand North American taste (and thus, generally its quality expectations). You can spot, and should stay miles away from these sterling silver suppliers. These factories tend to be much more labour intensive, and for sterling silver findings, there are some designs which you can't make by hand, let alone cost-effectively. Especially with the labour shortage of late, many factories rely on unskilled labour from northern provinces in order to maintain competitive prices for sterling silver findings. Price of sterling silver has risen, so raw material cost has exacerbated the situation. Always do a small test order, if you must import yourself. Try using a buying agent whenever possible. They have much more business leverage and the factories are much more eager to satisfy their demands than a small independent. The agent will charge you 10 -15% for their services, but it is well worth it. However, wholesale prices for sterling silver components has been driven so low by competition that quite often, the margin is only 3% to 7%. So, it is much better to just order from your local suppliers than to venture and risk getting burned and working extra hard. And we haven't started talking about travel costs.

Chinese factories in the past, in keeping with common Asian custom, will never embarrass a customer by saying no to an order. However, they just don't deliver or respond when you enquire. This is no different for sterling silver findings factories, which predominantly serve the western market (Asians still prefer gold, or if costume jewellery, they like base metal). However, this annoying custom is changing as the markets have opened up more. Nonetheless, it is up to the customer to push for things, be it better quality, or more timely delivery.

I've become increasingly happy with Chinese sterling silver findings suppliers. Some of the best quality sterling silver findings I've had made come from the 3 factories I work with. They've bettered some of the best Italian and Israeli sterling silver findings companies we work with.

To see some of the sterling silver components that Stones and Findings carries (that we import from all over the world), click here!

Toronto Bead Stores

Toronto bead stores are many. They are dotted throughout Toronto and the surrounding suburbs. However, I actually think there is room for a few more bead stores that are specialized, catering to better quality and unique findings. The population of this city is sophisticated, well read and up to date with fashion. We have some very creative and talented citizens. And in many artistic industries, Toronto has produced some world class artists, from fashion to film, to fine arts. Although Toronto bead stores are numerous, and they're doing a good job, I've seen much better stores in other parts, where the population is smaller, and in my view, the where people are not necessarily more artistic. Toronto offers great opportunities for a brave and creative would be bead store owner.

There is a famous enclave of bead stores along Queen Street, west of Spadina. Arton Beads Craft is wonderful, packed full, price competitive and have been there for as long as Torontonians can remember. They're the first to be there and Alice, the owner, is very kind, highly educated, artistic and passionate about her work and her low prices, of course. Arton Beads Craft waited a few years for her neighbour's lease to expire and took over next door to open a new concept store. It carries semi-precious stones, sterling silver and cubic zirconia. Arton Beads Craft started out carrying inexpensive basemetal findings and buttons, with occasional crystals.

Across the street from her is the nemesis store, Bling Bling. It is a very spacious place by comparison, and they're rapidly moving up the competition by directly importing their own pearls and stones. Prices for these are low. There are a few more bead stores in that area with similar merchandise, with focus on lower prices. The Crystal Bead Shop, like it's name suggests, focuses on crystals. Fancy Gems and Accessories has some finished jewellery as well as components. They are situated along Queen Street within 2 blocks of one another.

The only downtown Toronto Bead Store in that enclave that is catering to a different market is The Beadery. I really like the decor of that store. It is packed with merchandise, much of which is imported from the Philippines and China. The presentation is different and a lot of thought has gone into merchandising it. The prices are a lot higher than the other stores, though I believe they offer 30% wholesale discount if you purchase over $500.

It is rumoured that The Sassy Bead Co has recently closed their Toronto store. The head office is in Ottawa and there are a few locations there. They focus on cheap and cheerful. They like to buy end lots from the basements of novelty and bead wholesalers in New York, things which have not seen the light of day for many years. Those beads are cheap, bought by the pound, but unique and no longer in production. They had done well for themselves for a long time on high margins. However, I think it takes more to be a successful when there is so much competition amongst Toronto Bead Stores.

The staff at Bead FX is wonderful. Their store front, located in Scarborough, is smaller than most of their competitors. However, they do most of their business online. They have a strong presence in Czech beads and seed beads. Their staff are artistic, with great colour sense, and all make jewellery. They have many classes and a special equipment for glass bead making classes.

The Bead Junction is located in the Junction part of Toronto, around Queen and Roncesvalles area. It is nicely kept and the ladies at the store hold many classes. They're very strong in seed beads. There are a few more Toronto Bead Stores that do largely online sales. They also exhibit at the Toronto Bead Oasis Show. It's a worthwhile venue to visit, however, to get a more complete flavour of what they offer, it is always best to visit the stores. If you don't see something you are looking for, it is very important to ask. They may not have thought about bringing it in because they believe they do not have a market for it. But if you ask, you might just get. Beading is a very interesting and flexible business. I have a strong feeling that we're just at the cusp of a great leap for Toronto Bead Stores.

Jewellery Trunk Show 2 -- Dos and Don'ts

Do's and Don'ts of a Jewellery Trunk Show



There are many secrets to success to a jewellery trunk show. Although they do not guarantee success or failure, some of them are very important to keep in mind when planning a jewellery trunk show.

If you are the Jewellery Designer:

- Do your homework: find out as much about the event and agenda as you can. As the jewellery designer, you have the right and responsibility to know what is going to happen & what you can do to help prepare for the event. Be prepared with questions about how to handle special orders, how invoicing works for pieces that the jewellery designer brings, any discounts given & if they are shared by the boutique and jewellery designer... The fewer unknowns, the less the stress on the day, and the better your performance as the jewellery designer will be. You'll always have unknown variables at jewellery trunk shows, however, the fewer the better.

- Do more homework: as the jewellery designer, it is your duty to ask the boutique what looks you should bring. Be time/season sensitive about the collection. Consider what day your show is: if it is the office crowd & your jewellery trunk show is a weekday, bring jewellery that is appropriate for them. If it is close to Christmas time, bring jewellery in sets, they would become an easier sell. Bring a range, especially if it is your first time there. You need to test the waters & not let any opportunity go by.

- The jewellery designer should always be in control of how his/her jewellery is presented. Find out how much real estate is going to be allocated to the jewellery trunk show and if the designer needs to bring any displays. Always bring some, if you have them. You never know if it will be needed. The boutique management may not always understand how the jewellery designer wants their presentation to be.

- Ask what the retail boutique is doing to spread the word about your jewellery trunk show. Promotion is vital to the success to any business. Make sure they have proper artwork and excellent photographs of your jewellery. Take the initiative to find out what local newspapers in the boutique's area and their contact information for community event coverage. Send them little written press releases, or direct them to the retail boutique.

- Bring extra invoices/note paper to jot down special orders. Bring lots of business cards. You'll be surprised at how many people want a business card with the set they're giving away. Bring extra things that retail stores normally give away because you don't know how prepared the store might be. As the jewellery designer, it is ultimately your responsibility how the jewellery is perceived, from display to the moment the gift is unwrapped by a recipient.

- Wear appropriate attire & bring an extra change, just in case (I've learned this the hard way by spilling coffee on a white blouse within 20 minutes of the show). As the jewellery designer, everything about you that day speaks about your line of jewellery. Bring extra jewellery for the staff to wear for the jewellery trunk show, if you'd like. This is always good, but be prepared to give them away, unless they are too expensive for anyone to make the mistake of thinking it is a gift. Embarrassment & poor handling of them can cause lasting damage. Having everyone wear your merchandise is great and nothing promotes the jewellery than modelling it.

- Remember the names of all of the staff that you work with on the day of the jewellery trunk show. Aside from the politeness of addressing each person by their name, it builds loyalty. You should follow up with a proper thank you note after your jewellery trunk show. A gift of your jewellery, if it is not too expensive, is always appreciated and will help promote your jewellery line for a long time to come.

- As a jewellery designer you should offer to buy the staff coffee if you're going to go out for one yourself. Aside from that being proper etiquette, it shows how much you appreciate their work. You should offer to take them to lunch, if there is time, but be mindful of company policies on that.

- As a smart and respectable jewellery designer you should never do a jewellery trunk show at a boutique that does not regularly carry your jewellery designs. The reasons are:

1. The jewellery trunk show would not be properly advertised & turnout will be likely poor, since the boutique will not even invest in the jewellery, chances are, they will not invest in advertisement.

2. It will be embarrassing at the jewellery trunk show when customers ask what are the designs the boutique normally carries of the jewellery designer, and the answer is that they don't carry the line. Interested customers will almost awalys ask what new designs the jewellery designer is bringing, and why this event would be different from the regular offerings.

3. It is also awkward for the boutique staff, knowing that the buyer/owner isn't impressed enough with the jewellery designer's designs to invest in merchandise. Also, it looks desperate on the part of the jewellery designer. This is never a good situation.

- Lastly, the jewellery designer should bring at least a couple of changes of shoes, and consider flats. Most jewellery designers spend a great deal of time at the studio or office, often time in chairs, and do not know how difficult it is to stand all day (and tradeshows don't count because booths are carpeted). Quite often, the boutique floors are hard surfaces, such as stone or tile. The hardship is usually underestimated!
If you are the Boutique Operator:

- As a boutique operator and host of the jewellery trunk show, it is ultimately your responsibility to spread the word of the show. Here are some (if not all) of the things you should do: get free publicity by contacting the community events columnist in your local newspapers and radio stations, do advertisement in the local papers, call/email/snail mail your regular customers, print cards for walk in customers to pick up (these could be placed right under the designer's show case and at the cash and given to each customer who visits the store, at least 4 wks prior to the jewellery trunk show). The more advertisement you do, the better the turnout and sales result of the event. The results are proportional to the effort!

- As a boutique operator and host of the jewellery trunk show, it is your responsibility to organize and set the agenda for the day. Do let the designer know what to expect, so they can plan accordingly and bring proper jewellery, bring the proper displays and other presentation factors. The jewellery designer wants to help and you should give them as much information as possible for success.

- As the host of the jewellery trunk show, like any good host, it is your responsibility, aside from proper etiquette, to do everything possible to make the guest, the jewellery designer, feel comfortable and appreciated. This would include: training your staff and getting them excited about the jewellery trunk show, they should offer (and company pay for) coffee or any refreshments & lunch.

- For the jewellery trunk show, boutique staff should be properly trained to introduce the jewellery trunk show to every customer who walks into the boutique, as often many jewellery designers are shy and are inexperienced.

- To build loyalty and a better relationship between the boutique and the jewellery designer, the boutique manager should take the jewellery designer out to lunch and get a chance to talk either about business, or just to get to know the jewellery designer better on a personal level, and vice versa. This goes a long ways to help build rapport and motivate staff as well.

- As the host of the jewellery trunk show, it is very important to figure out the logistics, such as payment and ticketing, well in advance. It takes time to train staff, so be prepared on how you want it done. One option is to keep price tags of the designer's jewellery separate, but it is much better to note this on each sales receipt, to avoid any confusion. All staff should be properly trained. Less confusion on the day the better, focus should be on sales!

- Although no discount needs to be given, some boutiques do offer a 5% or 10% discount for the jewellery trunk show (not shared by the jewellery designer). Some boutiques offer a 5% "delayed gratification" discount to special orders, or orders to be picked up later.

To read about What are Trunk shows and their Benefits click here.

To read about Trunk Show Experience click here.

To read about Other Trunk Show Practices click here.

A 15 Point Guide for the Independent Jewellery Art

by Damien Zielinski





Materials and Accounting

1. Keep your overhead low. You don't need a studio and can't afford to pay for one when you're just starting out your jewellery business. If your apartment has a spare room, or even a big dining room table, it should be enough to get you started.

2. Buy jewellery supplies from local wholesalers. Do not travel further than a bus token's distance for jewellery components. Time and cost are both important to consider.

3. Keep your jewellery inventory as low as possible. Jewellery stock is expensive; do not order too many jewellery components at first. Buy very low volumes while you test the market power of your jewellery designs. When you become more confident about demand for your accessories, order more, but remember to always keep as little inventory as you can. Try not to ever order more than you're sure you can sell.

4. Buy parts from a jewellery wholesaler who offers low minimums, and start with the lowest. If you buy quantities any smaller, you will have to get middle-manned by stores or jewellery businesses that cater to hobbyists. If you go bigger, you risk unsold stock, and may not break even with sales.

Design

5. Find out what retail stores are looking for, what they sell a lot of, and who's buying it. It is very important that you spend a lot of time on groundwork and preliminary research. The more you know about your intended market, the more informed your jewellery designs will be. Talk to people and develop a thorough understanding of what your design strong points are, how to build on them, and how to tailor them to the demands of your target customer base.

6. Keep up with the changing world of accessory fashion and be flexible. Staying informed about what people are wearing on the streets and the runways will inform and inspire your work. Quickly adapt to new trends and styles-- being able to do this is a major part of your advantage as a small scale jewellery manufacturer. Avoid ordering parts from far away or keeping old stock.

7. Think about the role of each jewellery design in your portfolio of accessory lines. If all of your jewellery is generic in style, then it will only be a matter of price for your potential customers, and as an independent you don't have a prayer competing with big companies who import cheap Asian materials. On the other hand, if all of your designs are show-stopping runway pieces, they will garner attention but not profits. Stores like to put showpieces in windows to attract curious shoppers, but the jewelry they actually sell a lot of is going to be the kind that people can wear in a variety of social situations with a variety of outfits. Try to incorporate a handful of distinctive showpieces, but make sure your lines have something for everyone, and aren't too fashion-forward that they scare off the majority of your would-be customers.

8. Be flexible and dynamic. Demonstrate a ready willingness to customize your designs for stores and individual clients. Make use of your advantage as a small manufacturer who can change production and redesign things at the drop of a hat. Cooperating with the customer's desires is important to developing a good working relationship, and leads to sustained repeat business.

9. Value people who give you constructive input, and learn from it. Treasure those who give you helpful ideas, and learn to take criticism with grace. Remember that you're running a business, and what you think is great might not be exactly what stores or people want. You're not trying to sell jewelry to yourself. Build on strengths, expand on what is well received, and get rid of unpopular or unsuccessful design ideas immediately.

10. Guard your designs. They are your most precious commodity and there is not much in place to protect them from copycats. Show them only to people you trust, customers, and potential customers.

Selling your Jewelry

11. Calculate your cost. It is crucial to figure out how much each jewelry accessory costs you to make, and how much time you spend making it. Your markup should be 2-3 times cost for wholesale or 4-6 times cost for retail.

12. Be opportunistic about sales prospects, and carefully weigh the pros and cons of each. Selling to people directly is great for profit margins, but is very time consuming and may not worth your while. Jewelry conventions, shows, festivals, and other gatherings might be good times to set up a booth and personally connect with each customer. Just remember that time is one of your most precious resources. If you manage to get your jewelry accessories into boutiques, they will sell your product for you on their time, and provide a venue for showcasing your jewelry on top of any events you may personally go to.

13. Avoid selling your jewelry on consignment at all costs. Consignment means that a store will not buy jewellery from you outright, but rather keep it at their store on a sort of 'loan.' If items are sold, the store will take a percentage of the sale price, and you will get the remainder. The store has little motivation to push your jewelry, and if they have other accessories bought on wholesale, they will almost definitely try to sell those pieces before yours. With wholesale the jewellery is actually purchased up front by the store, and the onus is on them to either sell the items through or incur losses. For more information on differences between consignment and wholesale, please see our more in-depth exploration of the topic.

14. Develop positive and lasting relationships with your jewellery customers. Retail stores will want to see that you are reliable, consistent, and responsive. Drop by fairly frequently to see how your jewellery is selling, and talk to the store owners and employees to get feedback on what they like about your jewellery designs, who's buying them, and how they might be improved upon. For the sake of following up easily, you'll want to avoid selling to stores that are inaccessible or far away.

15. Do not take jewellery orders from stores that are too big for you to handle. Mathematically, one order should never exceed 10% of your yearly sales. Put another way, the outstanding debt of one customer should never exceed an amount you are willing to lose. If you do take big orders then be incredibly careful and make sure you're going to get paid. Even large department stores can be very fickle and prone to changing their minds. If this happens you could be put under by one big order that falls through, leaving you in debt. This tip is part of an important guiding philosophy: build up slowly and don't bite off more than you can chew.