Vancouver Bead Stores

There are a number of Vancouver Bead Stores. They are also all of fairly high calibre, compared to the bead stores of other major Canadian cities. I think this has a lot to do with the fact that Vancouverites are willing to spend more money on handmade goods. There are more small jewellery artisans per capita in Vancouver than any other major metropolis.

One of my favourites is Country Beads, owned by my friend Susan Gill. It is managed by Danika, a super talented and wonderful gal, and helped run by an army of fantastic and bubbly jewellery designers. Sue is the creative business woman behind the scene all these years. She has a gift for colour and likes warm and inviting interiors. I like her display ideas. She's people oriented, well traveled, open minded, and the ideal person to own a Vancouver Bead Store. Sue has a great eye for trends and quality. She hand picks all of her stones and Country Beads has the best selection of Indian cut stones in Vancouver. They provide steep volume discounts to wholesale jewellery designers. The store is definitely worth a visit and they're working on an online store.

Kimdoly specializes in inexpensive Chinese stone beads. They have 2 locations, and exhibit at all the major bead shows in Vancouver. Their prices are competitive and they have a large selection of stone beads. The variety is not different from regular Chinese stone beads. They believe their customer base is more price conscious, and their selection of sterling silver components is almost non-existent. If you like their selection of stone beads, but you don't want to go elsewhere to buy your sterling silver, you need to speak to the owners to get them to bring it in.

Capilano Rock And Gem is located on the north shore. It is a direct competitor to Country Beads, but without the meticulous selection. They have a large selection of sterling wire, sheets and casting grains. They also have a good selection of gold filled wires. They have a fair amount of pearls, but not a lot of stone beads.

There are a couple of Beadworks locations. One of them is located in Granville Island. It is very pretty and a relaxed location to shop in. However, like all Beadworks locations, the selection is limited and the prices are strictly retail.

Beadsmart is located in Richmond, but since they draw many Vancouver clients, I consider them as one of the Vancouver Bead Stores. The owner Cindy is very generous and their prices are great. They have purportedly the lowest prices and largest colour selection of Swarovski crystals. Cindy's partner, Kareen, is a retired banker who is very talented and has a great eye for colour co-ordination. She holds beading and wire wrapping classes. They have some fine chains a small selection of good clasps. They carry a good selection of sterling and gold-filled wire in different gauges. You can negotiate for volume discount and many regular customers get little gifts without having to ask.

Many retail customers go to Fire Mountain Gems across the border to do their shopping. However, it has been said that the stone beads from Fire Mountain Gems is poor and they've had to switch back to buying locally. The minimums at Fire Mountain Gems is low, but again, unless you buy a significant amount, the duties and shipping will not make it cost effective.

Vancouver Bead Stores are sophisticated and prices are as price competitive as that of many major cities. Because there are many professional jewellery designers in the city, Vancouver Bead Stores are prompted to carry better selection and enable themselves to sell wholesale in order to compete.

To take a look at what Stones and Findings, a Canadian sterling silver wholesaler, can provide, click here!

Sterling Silver Components Trunk Show

Recently I've been approached by a bead store to see about doing a trunk show of sterling silver components at her bead store. Stones And Findings has some of, if not outright, the best sterling silver components in Canada. We design many of our own findings and carry unique designs from European jewellery component designers. So, it came as no surprise that she would want us to do this at her store. She's certain of its success and was willing to do all of the preparation and tagging work. My surprise is that we do not do hold more trunk shows, especially given the current economic times and given how prolific our line of designs is. This goes not only for jewellery components, but also for finished jewellery and other design goods.

The model for her "bonanza show" is this: we ship her unusual goods unmarked for retail, and whatever she does not return to us, she pays for. Her show was just 1 day, held at 8pm until mid-night. She had recently completed a similar show for stone beads and it went phenomenally well. She sends out regular newsletters to a large audience of customers.

This trunk show, as with many other forms of trunk shows, provides a unique opportunity for the designer to showcase his or her range of designs, many pieces of which are not carried by the store regularly because of high unit cost and or the uniqueness of certain pieces that will not speak to the mass market. After all, every business survives on turnover, and selling sterling silver jewellery components is no different. The boutique owners, the bead store in this case, wants to test the market for certain price points and looks. And this is the best way to do it. I've already written an article on how jewellery trunk shows How to Put on your First Trunk Show work. It is mutually beneficial to store and the designer.

There are a few things that are vital for a sterling silver jewellery components show, like any trunk show, to be successful. The bead store must already have a large customer list that they can contact about the event. Otherwise, the store must buy a great deal of advertising. Press is usually very difficult to get, even if the event would be of interest to many people. The designer must have a variety of designs from which to choose. Otherwise, you don't get the maximum results out of the captive audience. They don't all want the same thing, and most of them come to shows if they know there will be unique items that would not be available any other time. I think I'm going to being more of items like this large leaf and some of this heavier chain. They are more exclusive and luxury items that speak to more than just the pedestrian consumer. The customer who values quality craftsmanship will understand our jewellery component designs. And I hope the show will give a stronger indication of the bead store's customer tastes. It is best if the show has a theme. If it is jewellery, then it must be designs of a certain designer. If this is a prolific designer, then the lines must be edited for a clearer theme. You may choose to do more than 1 show, each with a different theme. It must be easy for the consumer to understand. Otherwise, they'll be going to a bazaar. We will be focusing the show as a sterling silver jewellery components show.

All this said such shows are a lot of work and perhaps this is why there are so few of them. However, they are a lot of fun and offer unique opportunities for business growth. I will let you know how it goes with our sterling silver jewellery components show.

For more articles: Click Here!

Sterling Silver Informational Organization

Organizing Sterling Silver Findings

I really can't say enough about the importance of organizing one's supplies, like sterling silver findings. There are two different categories of organization: physical organization, and informational organization. And I'd like to touch on both and tell you a bit from personal experience, and invite you to send me your thoughts, personal solutions that you'd like to share with others, and tips on how to improve our system at Stones And Findings. In this article, I will talk about the informational organization of sterling silver components and jewellery.

Informational Organization

Informational organization is different from physical organization , and it's an area that many creative people tend to neglect. As the jewellery business grows, this part becomes more important and can be one of the biggest bottlenecks for growth. Supplier and cost information must be kept in a complete and easy to find manner. Without knowing the cost, you run the risk of pricing too low, especially if you are dealing with larger quantity orders or more reorders. Without knowing who the supplier is, it becomes time consuming to trace back and approach all of the likely sources if you need to reorder. You'd be surprised at how many customers email us to find out if we were the ones who sold them certain sterling silver findings , and usually they’re in a desperate hurry to know. Sometimes people call in to reorder some sterling silver findings that are "roundish and kind of shiny" . Well, that doesn't help much. Thankfully, we have all of their past orders, with pictures, on our computer screen. However, we'd still have to go over 10 or 15 things that fit the description before ascertaining the desired roundish shiny thing.

The most inexcusable disorganized people are the suppliers. When I bought from local sources for my jewellery making business quite often they would ask me to send the actual sample because they had no codes to begin with. And even if I give them codes that we agreed on before, they've forgotten. I resorted to creating a file in their office, and with each item I bought, I made sure they kept the sample in that file, with a code we agree on. I was buying large quantities, so I could do this and they wanted to make the effort. Even still, I'd they would prefer I bring a sample in because they couldn't figure things out and was not confident in their file. Well, by the time I send them the sample, and they receive it, it could be several days. It's just so unproductive. And I vowed that we would not be like that at Stones and Findings.

There are some very simple things that you can do to help yourselves keep organized:

keep set of actual sample of sterling silver findings in Ziploc bag with code info

Photocopy the component if can’t or don’t want do above

Use a binder and some slide holder sheets to keep samples and pictures of sterling silver components organized

Create folders in your email Outlook for suppliers, different folders for each supplier. Ditto with document, hard or soft copy

Ask suppliers to email you copy of your invoice, in Excel format. Use this to cut and paste into a Master order form for the supplier. Enter reorder quantity and save as another PO. While you are doing this, you can also look through to see what else you've bought from them on that list that might be running low.

Create a shopping list of staples that you use regularly. Keep it in a place that you'll look at as you create orders. The staples list is a reminder so you don't have to pay extra shipping just because you forgot some sterling silver findings that you use all the time.

Stones and Findings will be switching to our alphanumeric codes, which will be only 5 digits/letters long. This is will be more efficient. However, it will not affect your records or reorders as both codes can be used. We're always trying to be more organized, and with ever an increasing selection of sterling silver findings, it will be necessary.

If you have any tips or ideas, please email them to us at Lucy@stonesandfindings.com

If you would like to read about Physical Organization of Sterling Silver Findings and Jewellery Components please click here .

Create a Satin Finish on Sterling Silver

Then there is the satin finish. Simply take your existing component, and then you will be creating a lightly scratched surface. You can do this a couple of ways, very lightly brushed a fine S.O.S. pad – don't press to hard at first, and see the difference between the original finish, and what you have just created. If you prefer a deeper finish then press harder and continue until you like the finish you have created. When you’re satisfied with the new finish you’ve made, then proceed and complete the rest of the piece. If you have small crevices feel free to cut a small piece off and twist it, or wrap it around a cotton swab to get the recessed areas.


If you're looking to take a brushed finished surface down to high polish finish, you must use a lighter grade of emery paper to achieve a smoother look. You can even go all the way to a high polish finish and then perform your satin finish on the piece for a well finished look.





If you are going to satin finish from a high polish finish, you can mix up the finish by using some great tricks. This can put together a dynamic look, even if this is your first time trying out this method. By using a piece of masking tape, simply cut out a shape, or tape off an area that you do not want to give a satin finish and you will then create your finish that will have a fantastic contrast with in the metal itself. This method is perfect for mixing up a regular plain component and making it your own.




This finish can be mixed together with pieces that are a high polish and pieces that have a satin finish, and any other finish, like hammered that you've created for your components for your piece will have that extra stunning feature that makes your piece, truly a one of a kind.

Create Brushed Finish on Sterling Silver

The third is very similar to the satin finish , however you will use more aggressive means to obtain your new look. To create the brushed look, the finish will have more distinctive lines. You can use many things to create look. By hand you could use, and emery board or a file. Or you can use a course steel wool pad, a ball of aluminum foil or any other course metal or abrasive material.



With all of the above methods, I suggest either working at your bench, where you can clean up any metal shavings that may come off your piece. Otherwise working on a table with some newspaper down to catch the shavings is perfect. Take each piece you'd like to brush, and be sure to brush all sides, if it tends to slide, feel free to put a small amount of tape on your surface, in a loop, so it will stick to the surface and to the other side of your piece and stay still the entire time you’re brushing your component.




**Be careful with gold vermeille, as gold vermielle is sterling silver that is been plated with 14kt gold, so be wary of putting any aggressive finishing techniques as the gold may come off.

When creating your own brushed finish, it can be used in many different ways. If you're looking for a more defined look than satin, but not as rough as a hard brush with an emery board. You can complete a piece in full, and then run it through a steel wool pad, or a 3M pad. This will give it slight more edge than your regular satin finish. Or you can brush each individual piece and then put them all together. But, be sure to think of the small things, which will really bring the whole design together. Pieces that are often forgotten are components like jump rings , the clasp or the bail . These are parts that, if brushed, will complete the look. And remember, mix it up, and have fun with it!

Create a High Polish Finish on Sterling Silver

The high polish finish is often a standard finish, the reasoning is, is that this finish can be done a few different ways. A high polish finish can be used using a tumbling machine, be done by hand, or be done by a polishing wheel. A quick way to finish, and this is why it’s often a standard in so many components is that you are able to tumble these piece and in a few short A standard in jewellery components, they have often been tumbled to achieve this finish. You can use a rotary tumbler to polish jewelry and to remove burrs from jump rings or other metal components.

Materials List

• Small rotary tumbler and barrel.
  
• Soap (not detergent). Ivory soap flakes are recommended.
  
• Polished steel shot. You want enough to fill the barrel about halfway.

Procedure

• Pour the shot into a clean barrel to about the halfway mark.
  
• Add enough water to cover the shot plus about 3/4 inch.
  
• Add a tablespoon of soap flakes.
  
• Load the jewelry and/or components into the barrel. You want them to be able to tumble, so pack them loosely.
  
• Seal the barrel and let the tumbler rotate for 6-8 hours.
  
• When the pieces are sufficiently polished, remove them from the tumbler and rinse them well with water.
  
  
  

Helpful Tips*

Keep your steel shot covered with soap and water. All it takes is a few hours exposed to air for the shot to develop rust.

Don't polish more than one chain at a time unless you derive pleasure from untangling some serious knots. You can add other jewelry in with a chain (earrings, rings, components), just don't polish chains together.

If you use the same barrel for jewelry as you use to polish rocks, make certain that the barrel is absolutely clean. Otherwise, you may find yourself scratching your jewelry rather than polishing it!

Remove chemical 'antiquing' before polishing. Otherwise, a chemical reaction can cause green deposits to coat nooks and crannies.

Use extreme care if you are polishing plated or filled components (e.g., silver-plated or gold-filled). You run the risk of wearing or chipping the outer layer of metal.

Don't tumble components with stones, as they can become scratched or dislodged from their settings.

However you can take this to the next level, so it will be free of knick and scratches. If you have three different grades of emery or sand paper, and a rouge cloth you will be able to reach this yourself. A Rouge Polishing Cloth and it will really bring out that shine for your components.


When deciding on what finish to use, there's no need to only use just one. Be sure to mix up the finishes. Placing a high polish finish next to a brushed finish or even a satin finish can have a very beautiful effect and create a stunning and dynamic one of a kind piece.


*Credit to About.com for information about tumbling jewellery

Metal Allergies -- Sterling Silver and Gold Karats

People are allergic to metals for 2 main reasons; nickel and, less often, from salts leaching out of copper. Nickel is the main concern with roughly 12% of all women and 6% of males are allergic to nickel. Furthermore, even people with no history of nickel allergies will develop them over time if their skin makes regular contact with nickel. Most metals used in jewellery making such as silver, gold, rhodium, platinum or palladium are not known to cause allergic reactions in their pure forms. However, these metals are commonly alloyed with other metals to reduce cost, to make the metal more durable or to make the metal easier to work with.



Semi-precious and fashion jewellery comes predominately in a gold or silver tone. For gold tones, it can be karat gold, gold-filled, or achieved with gold plating over a base of sterling silver- a process known as gold vermeil- or, simply brass coated with clear lacquer. Brass, even with lacquer coating, is never recommended for jewellery making because it tarnishes extremely quickly and discolours to a patina green or black and leave marks on the skin. Copper has a fairly good reputation among people with sensitive allergies, but it too can generate rashes on the skin of the wearer as a result of the salts that are gradually teased out of the metal, causing dermatitis with prolonged exposure.

While karat gold and gold-filled can be brought back to their original shine, plated metals can not, and more people tend to be allergic to plated jewellery. Plating is thin and comes off easily with wear, and also there is leaching of the base metal. For these reasons, is not recommended for better quality or hand crafted jewellery. It is most often used in imported and low-end mass market jewellery.




Since people aren't allergic to gold but rather the base metals it is alloyed with, high purity is ideal. The higher the karat, the more pure, the fewer people are allergic to it. Unfortunately a person with a strong sensitivity to nickel will find that even 18 karat gold may be totally unwearable- after all, it is still only 75% pure gold. The same holds true for gold-filled, which also has different levels of gold purity.



Silver tones in jewellery are most commonly achieved with sterling silver, nickel-plating over a base metal, or pewter with a lacquer coating. Pewter has a steel grey colour, which is not desirable for some markets. It is a popular casting metal, but it is also soft, making it a less favourable metal for findings such as earring hooks and clasps. Pewter has a remarkably clean allergy track record, and problems only arise when the metal is alloyed with, surprise surprise, nickel. Many manufacturers go out of their way to notify clientele that their pewter is nickel-free, and you shouldn't be shy about inquiring if you are ever unsure.

The same people who react to low-karat gold jewellery will almost certainly also react to cheap silver jewellery, a function of the same culprit: nickel. Silver-looking articles sold for bargain prices have been found to contain as much as 78% nickel, sometimes coated with a silver layer that unfortunately does little to protect the skin of the wearer. Even worse is nickel silver, or so-called German silver, which is 90% nickel and 10% tin. Nickel is incidentally also responsible for occasional allergic reactions to surgical grade stainless steel (8-12% nickel), which for that exact reason is rapidly being replaced by titanium for body implants and orthodontic work.

Sterling silver, finally, is also sometimes partly alloyed with nickel, but has rarely been known to cause breakouts or rashes. This is the case because sterling silver is still (by definition) 92.5% pure, with the remainder usually accounted for by copper, which in such small concentration has never been reported to cause skin maladies. In cases where nickel is used as well as copper to make up sterling silver's remaining 7.5%, the percentage is still far too low and inactive even to offend the skin of someone with strong nickel sensitivity.

When gift giving, you should always be sure how sensitive the intended recipient's skin is. When designing for resale, one should always be conscious of perceived value. Sterling silver and gold are much more popular and this value will translate into more sales. If time and effort is to be invested in a unique design and hand crafting, one should use only sterling and karat or gold-filled metals.

Sterling Silver Chains Buying Decision Making

There are many things to consider when buying sterling silver chains , or any chains for that matter: unit cost, estimated possible uses, conduciveness to either short or long designs, my total budget, where we are in the season sales cycle, ease of reorder.

Unit cost of the Sterling Silver Chain

This is pretty basic. If the sterling silver chain is inexpensive, I can afford to buy more. Chances are, shipping or travel cost to get more will cost more than the sterling silver chain itself. I buy more just in case. If it is more expensive, then I defer the decision to other considerations.

Estimated Possible Uses

The more possible designs you can think of on the spot for the sterling silver chain , the more you should buy. However, as we all know, design ideas come to you after you've worked with bits of it. Sometimes ideas evolve. Some people say they can create designs in their head and then go back to buy the component. This ability, if it really exists to the extent some give themselves credit for, is rare. Most designers, like me, are tactile. They need to handle the sterling silver chain , and even link it up in different places. There is no perfect estimate. You don't want to go overboard, but there are some guidelines. If it is a staple like a sterling silver cable extension chain , you know you’ll use it up. Buy more. If the sterling silver chain can be used for obviously many things, like the sterling silver beading chain , buy more. If thesterling silver chain is more expensive, but you think you can cut it into sections for earrings, blend with cheaper chain for something long, works well as bracelet, like the hammered link buy more. You should always estimate your possible uses and then multiply with some rule of thumb, which I'll share later.

Short Chain or Long Chain

If the sterling silver chain looks like it would best be, or can be, used for a long necklace, I always buy more. One metre of sterling silver chain will just be long enough for one long necklace. There are some sterling silver chains that are obvious candidates for long designs such as this long oval sterling silver chain. Others aren't as obvious. If the sterling silver chain selection is in the grey area, buy slightly more you would otherwise.

Total Budget Considerations

I always have to think about this, though I don't always follow it when I am at a show or if I find some very exciting things. However, if I'm tight on budget, I defer this to the following two considerations below.

Position in the Season Sales Cycle

If it is at the beginning, I use up my budget on variety, but keeping in mind the number of samples and designs I will need to make. Also, I have to see if I am willing to take reorders for my work, and the lead time. So, if you have sale representatives or are sending samples out to boutiques, you will have to see how many simultaneous sets you need at the beginning of the season. If the lead time is small, you have to take into consideration of possible orders and accommodate. At the beginning of the season, buy more to accommodate the above and also note what possible designs you can make left over sterling silver chains into if your initial designs don't fly off the shelves. If it is at the end of the cycle and you are just filling in orders, buy less, keeping in mind how fast your delivery needs to be for your customers and from suppliers. If it is short for customers, but your supplier is far away or has a long lead time, you will have to buy more and hold stock.

Ease of Reorder

credit: http://www.tradeeasy.com/supplier/526636/selling-leads/1014557/ball-chain-on-spool-colored-ball-chain-brass-ball-chain.html

I always ask the supplier if they are carrying certain components forward. If yes, I can buy less. If no, or it is a close-out item, I buy a lot more, or will buy everything and if the quantity is high, I will see if I can get further discount if I buy everything. If you like something and it is being discontinued, you can shift your budget a little. The item can be used later. If it is being carried forward by the supplier, but they are far, hold more stock. Again, sometimes shipping is more costly than the merchandise.

Some Rules of Thumb

There are some things you should keep in mind:

Short necklaces are about 18" (can make 2/m of chain), bracelets are about 7", long necklaces that you can wrap 2x around the neck are at least 34", if you want to wrap 3x you need min of 44"

If you’re a small designer, remember you need to make and wear pieces yourself. Some customers don’t like to buy items worn by someone else, or you might become attached to it. Always buy enough for make, at the very least, 2 sets.

A good designer knows colour variations are a great way to increase sales. Ideal colour selection is 3 to 4 colours. This is usually the case for clothing designers.

I bought components for samples in 6's when I was a smaller designer. This gives you 3 pairs of earrings or 2 complete necklace and earring sets. I’ve graduated to 48's when I started doing other colours. For single colour items, I buy 24 if the lead time is less than 3 weeks for delivery to my customers. For chains, I buy expensive samples in 5 metres, and inexpensive in 10 metres. If it is less than $5/m, much cheaper just to do 25m spools.

For items that go to my sales representatives, I take the above and multiply each by 1.5.

Pictures of Our New Components!

Stones and Findings just got a new shipment of silver!
Included are some old favorites, some custom designed medallions and great magnetic wishboxes!





















For More, check out our website!
http://www.stonesandfindings.com

Sterling Silver Togggles

Sterling Silver Toggles

One of the most interesting and timeless closures is the sterling silver toggle. Since the beginning of time, humans have found that by wedging a piece of bone or wood through a smaller loop, you can create a secure wedge from which you can pull hard without the bone or stick coming through. The toggle lock has since evolved into many fancier forms, but the idea remains the same. Sterling silver toggles have essentially a toggle, which is the loop part of the lock, and a bar, the stylized stick part of the lock. Stones and Findings carries many different toggles . We have brushed toggles , leaf toggles and round toggles .
We pride ourselves on our uniqueness and the cleverness of some of our sterling silver toggles.

We sell toggles separately from our bars because they are interchangeable. You can wear some of the sterling silver toggles as pendants. One of the examples if our leaf toggle . We create a number of varieties of leaves like this. At the same time, we also make other shapes of hearts and free-forms. Also, we have toggles where the loop is not obviously a loop, but rather it is blended as part of the design of the leaf or branch.

You can use the bars of the sterling silver toggle locks only if you are using chains with suitably sized link holes. We have some sticks that are extraordinarily long to accommodate larger chain loops. For example . Sometimes, designers might want to use stone pendants with large holes as the toggle part and buy only the stick part to create toggle effect. Conversely, designers might want to use our fancy toggles with a biwa (or stick pearl) as the stick part. Possibilities are endless. And we've created a plethora of designs for different purposes.

*credit - queenbjewelry*

I am fond of designing with the toggle in the front, which allows for other charms and stones to be easily hung from the toggle. However, my favorite is putting the sterling silver toggles to the side. You can make it stay in that position by anchoring a heavy pendant to the necklace.

Toggles have a shortcoming of not being readily adjustable in length, unlike a lobster clasp with an extension chain. However, that can sometimes be remedied. You can position a loop, for example a large soldered ring on the same side of the chain as the stick part. Then, you can pull the stick and chain through the toggle and use the loop as a second toggle loop, thus shortening the chain. This method will give you two possible lengths for the necklace.

Well made sterling silver toggles will be very secure. You hear horror stories of the necklace or bracelet falling off and of losing them on the street. That often happens when the stick is too short. Stones and Findings made their sterling silver toggles extra long for their sets. You should always test the length and security of the toggle clasp by taking two sets and inserting the bar of one into the toggle of the other and working it to see them to see their security. However, if a second set is not available, you should measure the half length of the bar. It should be at least 20% longer than the widest part of the toggle.

Sterling silver toggles are fun and they can be very clever. I highly recommend you try designing with them outside of the traditional round shape and get creative with how you position them.

Sterling Silver Beads

Silver Beads

Silver Beads allow for great accents to Jewellery Making. They come in all shapes, sizes and forms, and from different countries. Silver Beads make great accompaniment for Semi-precious Stone Beads , Fresh Water Pearls and crystals, because of the contrast in lustre and texture. Silver Beads is an effective and inexpensive way to add accent to earrings.

Shiny Silver Beads

Some of the best shiny Silver Beads come from Italy. They are machine made, and are seamless. Italians are known for their laser cut Silver Beads. They reflect light like a funky disco ball. Satin Silver Beads add a feeling of luxury. However, satin Silver Beads are difficult to clean once they have tarnished. Most Italian silver is plated or coated for anti-tarnish. Chinese factories produce excellent Silver Beads, but usually they are not coated in lacquer and tarnish faster than Italian Silver Beads.

Antique Silver Beads

Some of the best antique Silver Beads come from Bali. This style of antique and intricate Silver Beads is famously known as Bali Beads. However, many similar Silver Beads are made in India, but some still call them Bali Beads, when they are in fact, not made in Bali at all. You can tell the difference between Silver Beads made in India from those made in Bali. Bali silver is generally better quality, and more intricate. Generations of Indonesians have been making Silver Beads in their homes. The craft has been passed from generation to generation. Indian Silver Beads have come on the market in the past decade as a cheaper alternative, however, their quality has been improving and they are gaining a larger share of the Silver Beads market.

Shiny Brushed Silver Beads

Indians have been making brushed hollow Silver Beads, which have become very popular with the North American Jewellery Making crowd. They are modern, and lend an update look to the venerableSilver Bead. These Silver Beads work very well with Silver Chains and crystals and stones. They lend a clean look to balance colours and unusual shapes.

Hollow-form Silver Beads

Some of the most interesting hollow-form Silver Beads from Isreal. Stones and Findings carries a large variety of Isreali hollow Silver Beads, to see a sample: Sterling Hollow Bead. Instead of casting from a rubber mould, Silver Beads is made in was, lightly painted in a conductive paint, and sat in the plating tank for hours. A heavy layer of Silver is formed on top of the wax shape. The wax is then melted and dripped out of a hole in the Silver Beads. What you're left with is just the Silver in the Silver Bead. It is a much more labour intensive process, and will cost more per gram then solid Silver Beads. However, the bead requires a lot less silver. Hollow Silver Beads are less expensive, thus cost effective for larger shapes.

Silver Earring Components

Silver Earring Components
by C.S.

There are limitless possible earring designs. However, popular Earrings have certain Jewellery Components in common. These Jewellery Components fall under the general categories of: Earring Hook component, and Findings, and sometimes Chains for longer earrings.

Earring Hook Component

This is the Earring Component that attaches the earring to the ear. It can be in the form of a Earring Hook, Earring Stud, Clip-On Backing. Stones And Findings carry a number of Silver Earring Hooks, Silver Leverbacks, and Silver Earring Studs. Sterling Silver Earring Findings, as well as Gold-Filled Earring Hooks and Gold-filled Leverbacks, and Gold Filled Earring Studs Gold Filled Findings.



Open ended Sterling Silver Earring Componentsallow for Semi-precious stone beads crystals to be inserted, and then a loop to be made for additional Earring Drops to be added. This allows for rather unusual accents for your Earring Designs.

Leverback Earring Components

Leverback Earring Components are wonderful and preferred by many Jewellery Designers because they don’t fall off the ear no matter how active the wearer is, and no matter how much their ear piercing has been stretched. The best Silver Leverback Earring Components come from Italian and Chinese factories, using Italian machines. Stay away from Silver Leverback Earring Components made in India, Thailand, and Bali. The spring mechanisms are not as strong, and don't spring back the way Italian machine made ones do. The price difference for Silver Leverback Earring Components is negligible, but the quality is highly noticeable.

Earring Studs

Earrings Studs are sometimes preferred to Earring Hooks, especially for those whose ear piercings have been stretched. The Earring Stud hides the stretched holes, which Earring Hooks do not. Silver Earring Studs and Gold-Filled Earring Studs are better than base metal because they come into contact with the skin. Some people are allergic to base metals, and even if there is a protective plating, the inside metal will leech out, sometimes changing the colour of a person’s skin. Earring Studs have more contact area with the skin.

Sterling Silver Wire

Silver Wire is one of the single most useful Jewellery Components ever invented. Stones And Findings has a variety of shapes and gauges Sterling Silver Wire. In Jewellery Making, Silver Wire can be used to weave, connect components, thread beads, tie and frame, and embellish beads. Silver Wire can also be hammered and twisted into shapes and be, in itself, the centre of the Jewellery Design.

SHAPES OF STERLING SILVER WIRE

Round Silver Wire

Round Silver Wire is the most commonly used in Jewellery Making. As most bead holes are drilled round, round Silver Wire fits the best. Unlike square Silver Wire, round Silver Wire will not show edges and you don't have to worry about misalignment. Round Silver Wire is the best for beginners. They are also the most readily available of all Silver Wires. They come in spools, coils, and foot-length straight pieces.

Square Silver Wire

Square Silver Wire are needed in certain projects where round Silver Wire just will not work. For example: when you need hanging pieces not to swing or swivel. You can use Square Silver Wire as the cog that fits into a square hole. Square Silver Wire also produces a nice faceted look for fancy wire wrapping.

Half Round Silver Wire

Half Round Silver Wire is available at some specialty bead stores. It has some properties of the square Silver Wire when you need things secured, but also can provide the aesthetics of round wire when wrapped.

Creating Your Own Patina for Sterling Silver Jewellery

by Elizabeth Meister

If you want to darken the surface of your sterling silver jewellery components or jewellery designs quickly you can use a few different methods. These methods include the boiled egg method, the kitty litter method and the shower method.

The Boiled Egg Method
The most important part of this method in darkening the surface of your sterling silver jewellery includes the use of the yolk. You can choose to separate the white if you want to use it for something else - as the egg will not be edible after you perform this method!


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For this method, you need to take a resealable container or bag; then, after separating the egg white from the yolk break the yolk or mix it, and put your sterling silver jewellery inside the bag together with the yolk.

Your sterling silver jewellery can touch the egg; don't worry about contaminating it. After waiting 10 minutes, you will start to notice that your sterling silver jewllery will start to change and you can wait as long as 10 hours, developing a darker colour gradually.

TIPS - Be sure to clean your sterling silver jewellery well before putting it together with the yolk. This will help in creating a more even coat.

The Kitty Litter Method
The key component to this method is the ammonia found in the urine of your pet. Therefore, you need to create an air tight environment, above which your sterling silver jewellery can hang. You will also need a bowl, that you can throw away after, and a large zip-lock bag. Fill the bowl with kitty litter, hang your sterling silver jewellery above it, and cover with a zip-lock bag. If you want a much faster reaction, bury your sterling silver piece in the kitty litter, let it stand a few minutes and clean well after the procedure is complete.

credit: Sanrio

TIPS - If you would prefer not using this method, you can use different liquids to saturate your sterling silver jewellery such as old wine, ammonia, or sour milk. Saw dust is also a good alternative to kitty litter as well.

The Shower Method
If you have a few weeks of time to dedicate to your method, consider the shower method. Simply, hang your sterling silver jewellery in your bathroom and over a few weeks time it will naturally patina itself.

And if you don't like your home made patina finish for your sterling silver jewellery, you can always use the pre-packaged patina. Liver of Sulfur can be found at most jewellery supply stores. Just take a small amount of Liver of Sulfur and mix it with a cup of water and dip and re-dip your sterling silver piece into the solution until you've reached the desired colour. You can also create a wide variety of colours by simply warming up the liquid before dipping inn your sterling silver jewellery.

After you have created the patina on your sterling silver piece, feel free to experiment with baking soda on your finished surface.